Up Close with the Louis Moinet Metropolis Watch (Review)

In the development and planning of haute horology and the blue printing of architectural structures, many similarities can be found. Fundamental components such as space, interplay of lighting, materials, etc all come into play. With the development of the striking Louis Monet Metropolis watch (first seen at SIHH and now at Baselworld 2017), the master watchmakers of this distinguished brand seek to blend these components into a timepiece that’s contemporary and modernistic.  The Louis Moinet Metropolis watch, an inaugural piece, was two years in the making. Here we bring you a close up look at it.

Highlights of the Louis Moinet Metropolis watch

The Louis Moinet Metropolis watch is a three-hand watch, with an all new “Neo” case and some skeletonization for added depth and dimension.  The movement was developed in tandem with Concepto exclusively for Louis Moinet. There is open-working on the dial, as well as on the  lugs of the very attractive timepiece. Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO Ateliers Louis Moinet. “Its ethos combines ergonomics with design, and function with style. We’ve broken free of neoclassical conventions and adopted a committed, contemporary approach that’s unlike anything we’ve ever done before.”

Openwork is a big theme of the Metropolis and as such three different sets of openworked displays are featured in the piece: hour markers, the dial, an the lugs andvertical bridges. The sum effect is a three dimensional aspect and layers of visual depth. The open work design around the Roman numeral hour markers is a first for a Louis Moinet timepiece and as a result extra attention was paid to them. Two key points sum up their approach to the design of the hour markers: 1) light dances off each hour maker’s three differently shaped faces and 2) the hour markers are designed to be suspended in mid-air which helps drives the three dimensionality of the piece. Each side of the diamond-cut satin finished indices reflects light into the dial helps accentuate the  lacquer-coated hour Roman numerals (white numerals  on the gold version and blue on the steel version) and depth of color.

Movement and other Details of the Louis Moinet Metropolis

The Metropolis is powered by the new LM45 caliber and features 48 hour power reserve. It embodies Louis Moinet’s distinctive virtues of creative horology, art and design, and exclusivity. The symbols for these virtues are emblazoned on the movement’s bridge. On the dial, between the 8 o’clock and the 12 o’clock, the escapement (beating at a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour) and the offset seconds hand are displayed in all their glory, carefully arranged to ensure an unobstructed view of every detail of the Metropolis’ workings.

 

The movement’s finishes embody all the noble traditions of fine watchmaking: Côtes de Genève, diamond-cut angles, circular-grained wheels, and pearling. The sapphire caseback, meanwhile, reveals the movement of the rotor, mounted on a ball bearing. There’s a new, concentric version of the Clou de Paris pattern, much beloved of Louis Moinet in the nineteenth century, conveying a striking impression of motion. The hours, minutes, and seconds are read off by Louis Moinet’s iconic double-lined “Gouttes de Rosée” dewdrop hands.

Final Specs of the Louis Moinet Metropolis

The case size is a contemporary 43.2 mm  and consists of 55 parts. As mentioned, the case is the brand’s new Neo, and is water resistant to 50 meters. The watch is presented on a crocodile strap that comes with a folding clasp decorated with yet another Louis Moinet symbol, the Fleur de Lys. Metropolis will be available in two initial limited editions of 60, in steel and 18K rose gold, with prices starting at CHF 10,500 for steel and 29,500 CHF for gold.

Impressions of the Louis Moinet Metropolis

Both options are truly gorgeous and represent  high quality craftsmanship that crosses the line between horology, art and architecture. For me, however, the stunning blue accents on the rich black dial of the stainless steel version offers incredible contrast and really blends classic and modern. This is the watch that steals the limelight over the more classical looking  18-karat rose gold watch.