Understanding Why MB&F Sold 25 Percent Of The Brand To Chanel, And Why Chanel Invested

Look around online. Almost everywhere you will see the announcement from late last week that MB&F sold a 25% stake in its company to Chanel. Some were surprised by this venture; others wondered how it would affect this much-beloved brand. However, knowing Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, the way I do and for as long as I have, this decision to sell a small (but not too small) stake in the company makes perfect sense.  In fact, it was one of the smartest moves Max could have made — and believe me, he’s made a lot of very smart moves throughout his career.

I remember Büsser from his days at Harry Winston — and actually even before that when he was at Jaeger-LeCoultre. But it was at Harry Winston where his true genius took center stage… maybe something a brand like Harry Winston wasn’t ready for. He was the brains behind the now-famed Opus series – the first concept watches created by working with independent watchmakers who could  bring visionary timepieces, in very limited editions, to fruition.

But Max had so much more to give than what he was able to at Harry Winston, so it made sense for him to move on. He wanted the freedom to create truly remarkable watches. By then, we had developed a great relationship: he was always someone I could go to for out-of-the-box quotes for articles and he knew that he could trust me with his secrets and to give honest advice.

So, in the early 2000’s when I was traveling to the then-SIHH show (Watches & Wonders Geneva, today),  he called me up and wanted to meet. His reason: show me a prototype of something he was working on.

While I usually don’t take appointments outside of the show, especially back then, I would never say no to Max. I knew whatever he had to show me was going to be spectacular. And, in typical Max style, he did everything on the up and up. He did not pull me away from the show; he offered to meet me outside of the show so as not to infringe on the show or on my time. If you know Max, you know that everything he does is above board. Of course I would meet him.

That meeting left me astounded. While I had seen my share of pretty incredible timepieces over the two decades I had already been in the industry, the prototype Max showed me was jaw-dropping. I knew he would be successful, and just a couple of years later, in 2005, he launched MB&F – making history in the watch world. In fact, MB&F – short for Maximilian Büsser & Friends – will certainly go down in the watchmaking history books as a pioneer of ideas, concepts and a new reality.

Max has quietly — for the past 20 years — been building something extraordinary: limited-edition watches that are not just horological machines, but also are incredible statements of mechanics, technology, and, most importantly, imagination. The brand boasts more than 20 calibers and countless editions of award-winning Horological and Legacy machines.

The people Max has always teamed with for the making of his three-dimensional kinetic-art machines are always the best of the best and all have the same ethics and integrity as Max. So too does Chanel.

That’s why this 25% sale of MB&F to Chanel ensures his legacy and the ability to continue building outrageous yet coveted horological machines. A privately owned company, Chanel is dedicated to promoting the arts of watchmaking and savoir-faire. The brand significantly invests in R&D, innovation and people – especially in the timekeeping world.

In fact, investing in MB&F is not Chanel’s first venture into supporting the independents. The brand, which launched its watchmaking in 1987, backed the esteemed Roman Gauthier (investing in 2011) and the brilliant F.P. Journe (in 2018)  — understanding that these moves are the best way to ensure continued independence for creative brands and component suppliers.

Such is the case with MB&F.  The strategic investment on Chanel’s part represents its desire to evolve high-end watchmaking and innovative, visionary thinking. Meanwhile, for MB&F, the investment enables the company to move forward with its horological concept laboratory, its micro-engineering and its radical concept watches. Essentially the move cements the next 25- plus years of the MB&F brand. Chanel’s purchase brings monetary benefits, access to high-tech research and development and longevity.

Büsser retains the majority stake of MB&F (which enjoyed revenues in 2023 of CHF 45.4 million). He owns 60 percent; his partner in the company, Serge Kriknoff, owns 15 percent; Chanel now owns 25 percent.

According to Büsser, nothing will really change in terms of the operations or the innovative product as consumers see it.  He will continue to lead creation and general management, together with his management team composed of Kriknoff (Head of R&D & Production), Charris Yadigaroglou (Head of Marketing Communications) and Thibault Verdonckt (Head of Sales).

“It was our responsibility, in today’s very favorable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future – a natural evolution for a company celebrating its 20th anniversary next year,” said Büsser. “In addition to allowing us to pursue our independent path, free of any pressure on growth, the investment by Chanel will strengthen our operations by providing access when needed to their wider ecosystem and network of specialized suppliers.”

In a statement issued by both companies,  Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewelry, said, “We are delighted to sign a strategic partnership with MB&F who share the same values of independence, creativity and excellence. The announcement is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and expertise, reaffirming our position in high-end watchmaking.”

Büsser also assures lovers of the M.A.D. Editions of more accessibly priced watches that the brand will continue to manufacture this line. (This series was launched in 2021 and currently MB&F creates about 3,500 M.A.D. watches per year.)