Step Aside Bros: Cartier’s Animal Jewelry Watches Are Wildly Enticing

(This article by Roberta Naas first appeared on her column on Forbes.com)

Almost since its inception, the venerable house of Cartier has treated the animal world with the respect and dignity it deserves – not to mention fully embracing the mystery and desires inherent in the finest wild creatures.  Even in its timepieces, ever since the first Panther’s spotted coat graced a watch case in 1914, the brand deftly brings nature to life. This year is no exception. While Cartier has many intriguing new timepiece collections to offer the world this year, beginning at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, it is this high-jeweled, high-art series that is capturing hearts and eyes.

Among the animals called upon to breathe life into its timepieces: the beloved striped zebra,  the cunning crocodile, the sinewy panther and the mysterious tiger – all comprising the new Animal Jewelry Watches.

In a move that Cartier’s master artisans execute so well, several of the new watches, including the crocodile, tiger and panther, are created as three-dimensional sculptured watches – meticulously set with diamonds and gemstones.

There are multiple renditions of the crocodile and the panther this year, but the three stand-out Crocodile Jewelry Watches feature the body and head of the crocodile forming the case and enveloping the round watch dial. Offered in three white gold versions – each set with a different colorway of gemstones – the Crocodile is a sculptured creature whose head and body circle the case beginning at 10:00  and ending with the tail swooping onto the dial at 7:00. The space between 7:00 and 10:00 is entirely gem set to match the gem-set dial. In each instance, the crocodile’s body is magnificently set with diamonds.

One version is an entirely diamond-set watch with diamond-dial, case and crocodile. The second version  boasts a diamond crocodile against a diamond and sapphire case and dial and the third is a version with diamond-set bracelet, crocodile and a dial set with diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines and emeralds. In each case, the sculpted and gem-set crocodile boasts a green, emerald eye.

There is also a Panther Jewelry watch that boasts the sculpted body and head of a panther wrapped around the round case. The panther is set with diamonds and a black-enamel spot motif, while the case and dial are set with rhodolite garnets, spessartite garnets, onyx,  and yellow and white diamonds.

Also realized as sculptures, is another round of  wild animal watches – this time with the head of the animal – panther, tiger or crocodile – extending from the bracelet  and reaching onto the case of the watch with its jaw – each almost clamping its teeth onto the lustrous, desirable timepiece. Each of these three watches boasts a sinewy bracelet set with gemstones.

Crafted in18-karat gold, the panther is realized in diamonds, the crocodile in diamonds and emeralds indicative of its surroundings, and the tiger is set with spinels, spessartite, garnets and yellow and orange sapphires with a black lacquer nose to properly emulate the stripes of the mysterious feline.

Looking for a more abstract way to envision the animals, Cartier also releases series of Animal Jewelry watches that reflect the animal’s coat via a round case meticulously set with gemstones surrounding a marquis-shaped dial. Versions include a case with stripes created using tsavorites, diamonds and black lacquer, one with black spinel and diamonds and one in rose gold with rubies, diamonds and black lacquer. Are they zebras? Are they  a combination of zebra and crocodile or tiger? The way the case is created on multiple layers and levels leaves the onlooker wondering, especially when viewed from the side.

Being jewelers since 1847, Cartier has a singular positioning and a unique relationship with style. The Maison addresses watchmaking through the eyes of a jeweler and with the hands of an expert in precision watchmaking. There is no compromise on the technical mastery of its timepieces, and no limits on its creative expression.

In short, the new collection of Animal Jewelry Watches  – all housing quartz movements — is at once mesmerizing and mysterious, inviting but with a feint hint of trepidation. It is precisely this allure that Cartier’s master designers and artisans strive to achieve. In every design, in every shape, there should be an element of surprise. This is a collection not to be missed.