Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date

This year at Watches & Wonders Geneva, I had the extraordinary opportunity to go hands-on with one of the most important  270^th anniversary releases from Vacheron Constantin: the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface. In fact, to celebrate its 270th anniversary, the Maison is introducing three major limited editions within its Traditionnelle collection — all paying tribute to its history of mechanical excellence and stylistic sophistication.

Crafted in 950 platinum, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface embodies two of Vacheron Constantin’s historical signatures: the retrograde display and the openworked dial. Limited to just 370 pieces, each individually numbered, this watch reinterprets key elements of the brand’s DNA with a bold yet refined contemporary style.

On the wrist, the watch immediately impresses with its layered, architectural dial. True to its Openface name, much of the movement is on display, showcasing the exceptional finish and complexity beneath the surface. At 41mm in diameter and just under 11mm thick, the case retains the elegant proportions typical of the Traditionnelle line, with stepped lugs, a slim bezel, and a fluted caseback.

Inside beats a newly developed self-winding manufacture movement, Caliber 2460 QPR31/270. This sophisticated movement combines a perpetual calendar — complete with day, month, leap-year, and precision moon-phase displays — with a dramatic retrograde date that sweeps elegantly across the upper arc of the dial. The sapphire discs for the calendar indications are set against a deep blue background, creating a stunning visual contrast while maintaining clarity and legibility.

A closer look reveals even greater subtleties. The open-worked portion of the dial boasts a hand-guilloché with a special 270th-anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s iconic symbol. The blued retrograde date hand adds a final pop of color and sophistication. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the “Côte unique” finishing and the engraved 270th anniversary emblem on the movement further emphasize the artisanal craftsmanship at play.

It is fitting that Vacheron Constantin would choose these particular complications — openworked architecture and retrograde displays — to celebrate this major milestone. Both techniques have deep roots in the brand’s history: the first partially openworked Vacheron Constantin dial dates to 1918, while the retrograde complication traces back to a 1940 wristwatch known as “Don Pancho,” a watch so technically advanced that it only resurfaced decades later.

The watch is finished with a  blue Mississippienis alligator strap with platinum folding buckle. It retails for $107,000.

As mentioned, there are two more models in this anniversary Openface trilogy — the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface and the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface that we will cover soon. There will also be a few more surprises throughout the year.