A. Lange & Sohne Unveils Next-Generation Zeitwerk With New-Gen Caliber

 

As many new-generation watchmakers are entering the watch world, we are witnessing some strong evolutions of modern-day iconic watches. Such is the case with the much-coveted A. Lange  & Sohne  Zeitwerk. First unveiled to the world 13 years ago in 2009, the German-made luxury timepiece was the brand’s first to boast a mechanical jumping digital display of the hours and the minutes in a strikingly harmonious dial. Thanks to its specially created constant force escapement, the watch was also incredibly precise. All of the features together propelled the Zeitwerk to the forefront of collectors’ minds. Today, A. Lange & Sohne unveils the newest generation of award-winning Zeitwerk watches.

Two new versions, in platinum or in 18-karat pink gold, are powered by a next-generation, or evolved, mechanical movement: caliber L043.6, which holds seven patents. It also offers 72 hours of power reserve – double the amount of time from previous versions. This was made possible thanks to a patented barrel design inside the movement with two mainsprings. Together they enable the Zeitwerk to perform many more minute and hour jumps.  This extended reserve enables the wearer to put the watch down on Friday evening, for instance, change to another piece for the weekend and then still pick up the watch Monday morning without having to reset the time.

Additionally, the new generation caliber enables individual setting of the hour using a pusher at 4:00 on the case – a useful feature when traveling between time zones. To create this feature, the master watchmakers (a new generation) at A. Lange & Sohne borrowed and reworked the mechanics of the concept that was introduced with the Zeitwerk Date watch and that allowed for changing of the date.  In the new caliber a complex patented vertical clutch system is used. This new 451-part movement also consists of special oscillating system with balance spring and a patented beat-adjustment to keep isochronism incredibly precise. Every one of the 451 components in this caliber is hand finished and assembled. Much of it is visible via a transparent sapphire case back.

In terms of aesthetics, the new Zeitwerk features the same three patented jumping disks – to show the hours and minutes – are displayed on the watch in large numerals – one of the most beloved aspects of this watch and a nod back to the original inspiration for the Zeitwerk. That inspiration  was a five-minute clock in the Semper Opera House in Dresden developed by 19^th century  court clockmaker Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes who was asked to make a clock that would let people see the time all the way in the back. He completed his clock with co-worker Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1841.  The new caliber and dial design, though, now also boasts a larger subsidiary seconds dial at 6:00 between the jumping apertures.

While the mechanics and operation of the Zeitwerk is different from that clock, it recalled the rich German heritage and the constantly forward-thinking innovation of the brand. Wearing a Zeitwerk on the wrist is appealing minute after minute, as the numerals that showcase the minutes jump, but the true orchestration of mechanics happens every hour when the hour and the two minutes numerals all jump at once. The new Zeitwerk is 41.9mm in diameter and the pink gold version features a black dial, while the platinum watch boasts a solid silver dial. Each is finished with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap. Price is on request.

 

(This article by Roberta Naas first appeared on Forbes.com.)