A Closer Look: Louis Vuitton’s $68,000 Platinum Escale

Louis Vuitton has once again elevated the boundaries of haute horlogerie with the introduction of its new Escale Limited Edition timepiece. Crafted in platinum and adorned with an extraordinary hand-crafted dial, this watch serves as a tribute to both the maison’s heritage and the artisans who practice centuries-old watchmaking techniques. Limited to just 50 pieces, the Escale represents the pinnacle of craftsmanship, precision, and rarity—a combination that has already seen all examples sold out, despite its $68,000 price tag.

Impressions:

The pièce de résistance of the Escale is undoubtedly its breathtaking dial, a marriage of guilloché engraving and grand feu enamel, two of the most demanding decorative crafts in watchmaking. The process begins with a blank disc of solid gold, painstakingly milled to create a raised edge that will later contain the enamel. A hand-operated rose engine is used to engrave a mesmerizing guilloché pattern at the center, its hypnotic waves created by artisans with a level of skill that takes decades to perfect. The precision required to bring the engraving right up to the dial’s delicate raised edge is extraordinary—a feat only possible through the expertise of a master guillocheur.

Following the engraving, the dial passes to the enameller’s hands, where a combination of artistry and chemistry comes into play. Enamel pigments, finely ground glass mixed with water and oils, are carefully applied to the guilloché surface using the champlevé technique. Here, the enamel fills the recessed cells, creating a translucent layer that allows the intricate guilloché to shine through. This interplay between enamel and engraving, known as flinqué, was particularly beloved in 19th-century Europe and finds itself beautifully reimagined in the Escale.

Firing the enamel in a kiln at temperatures exceeding 800°C is a delicate balancing act. The dial must endure repeated rounds of firing, with each layer of enamel fusing to the gold base. However, even the reverse side of the dial receives attention. In a nod to tradition, counter enamel is applied to the back, ensuring the dial’s structural integrity during firing while offering a hidden message for future watchmakers: “Guilloché Main, Émail Grand Feu.”

The final challenge lies in securing the hour indices. Enamel’s glass-like fragility makes drilling nearly impossible, but Louis Vuitton’s artisans employ modern laser technology to burn microscopic holes through the dial. This precision allows the riveted white gold hour markers to sit perfectly, a detail almost unheard of in contemporary enamel watchmaking.

The 39mm platinum case protects the movement within that is also visible via a sapphire case back. It is the LFT023 caliber, a self-winding movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. With a 22-carat rose gold micro-rotor and Geneva Observatory chronometer certification, this movement promises accuracy to within -4/+6 seconds per day and boasts a 50-hour power reserve.