Recently, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a groundbreaking new timepiece—the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184—at the Precision Pioneer exhibition in Beijing. This watch is a stunning fusion of mechanical ingenuity and artistic craftsmanship, an achievement that not only celebrates the pinnacle of fine watchmaking but also showcases the mastery of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s renowned Métiers Rares™ atelier. Available in a limited edition of five pieces in either white gold or pink gold, this watch promises to be a crown jewel in the world of haute horlogerie.
The Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise in uniting three of the most challenging and revered complications in horology: precision (with a Gyrotourbillon), sound (with repeater functions), and astronomical (perpetual calendar) timekeeping. The manually wound Caliber 184, originally introduced in 2019, has been reinterpreted for this edition with an extraordinary level of artistic and mechanical detail.
At the heart of this 43mm watch is the fifth iteration of the bi-axial Gyrotourbillon, a remarkable innovation that reduces the size of the mechanism without compromising its performance. Paired with a minute repeater that sounds the iconic Westminster chime and a highly intuitive perpetual calendar, the Calibre 184 is a true mechanical marvel.
The watch also incorporates a constant force mechanism, ensuring a steady flow of energy to the regulating organ and further enhancing timekeeping accuracy. The dead-beat minute hand and leaping date display add to its precision and complexity.
The dial is a harmonious composition of contrasts—generous curves and rectilinear geometry, textured surfaces and high-shine elements — all brought together in a restrained bi-color palette. The use of black Grand Feu enamel adds depth and elegance to the design, while the semi-transparent sapphire sub-dial offers a tantalizing glimpse of the perpetual calendar discs underneath.
What truly sets this watch apart is the intricate decoration, a hallmark of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artistic expertise. Lacquered surfaces and fine linework adorn the dial, while the open-worked lower half showcases the mesmerizing multi-dimensional Gyrotourbillon. Flanking the tourbillon are the repeater hammers, visually balanced by curved gongs treated with a sleek black finish. These elements work together in perfect visual harmony, creating an aesthetic that is as intricate as it is captivating.
The reduced size of the Gyrotourbillon in Calibre 184 allowed Jaeger-LeCoultre to integrate the minute repeater without adding excessive thickness. It plays the Westminster carillon—the melody famously heard from Big Ben in London. Unlike conventional minute repeaters that use two hammers, this one requires four, striking in perfect synchrony to produce the complex chimes of the Westminster melody.
The perpetual calendar is another masterstroke, requiring manual adjustment only in centennial years that are not leap years, the next being in 2100. The layout of the calendar is intuitive, with the day, month, and year displayed in small windows on the dial, while the date is indicated on a ring surrounding the sub-dial. The date hand leaps from the 16th to the 17th of each month, preserving an unobstructed view of the Gyrotourbillon. But, all of this superb workmanship comes at a price — one that is approximately $995,000.
Technical specs: MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 184
Case: White Gold 750/1000, or 18-karat pink gold
Dimensions: 43 mm x 14.1 mm thick
Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184
Functions: Hours and Minutes, Perpetual Calendar with Day, Month, Year and Leaping Date, Minute Repeater with Westminster Chime, Gyrotourbillon with one-minute constant force mechanism
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Dial: Black Grand Feu enamel with golden geometric decoration; black sapphire sub-dial
Water resistance: 5 bar (approximately 50 meters)
Strap: Black alligator with small scale lining
Limited edition: 5 pieces of each color of gold