A Closer Look: Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti $150,000 Watch

Recently, I was in New York City for LVMH Watch Week and had the incredible opportunity to go hands-on with the newest Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch, unveiled this past Monday. It was an unforgettable experience to discuss the creation firsthand with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, diving into his vision and his collaboration with Max Büsser on this extraordinary project  — a second joint venture between the legendary brand Bulgari and independent Swiss watch brand MB&F: Bulgari XMB&F Serpenti.

Designed to shake up the watch world in general and lovers of the iconic Bulgari Serpenti specifically, the new watch marks the second collaboration between these two brands and is a mechanically advanced, three-dimensional interpretation of the jewelry watch named Serpenti that got its start in 1948.

The result of more than three years of work, including dozens of prototypes, hundreds of sketches, a completely new movement, and an all-new case, the watch is a highly technical work of art that brings the best of both brands together in mechanical mastery.

Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari, not only shared many of his sketches with me during our meeting at the Bulgari boutique in New York, but also his story, including the fact that he has long wanted to create a men’s, or at least a more unisex, Serpenti.

“I would see men wearing Serpenti jewelry watches on Bond Street and other places and I wondered, what’s going on? Why do they wear this Serpenti watch? Maybe because they need something that doesn’t exist yet. So, the idea was in my brain for all these years but I was unsure the best way to create it,” said Buonamassa Stigliani. “I had already talked to my marketing team, telling them I would love to have a Serpenti for gentleman and, if we found a way to do it, can we do it.”

How The MB&F Bulldog Inspired Buonomassa Stigliani

With the go-ahead in place, Buonamassa Stigliani still didn’t know how he was going to execute it. Until he saw the MB&F HM 10 Bulldog watch  unveiled in 2020. For him, that watch was an aha moment. He knew immediately that MB&F could do a mechanical 3D Serpenti. As mentioned, the two brands had already worked on a previous collaboration in 2021, when Bulgari brought its incredible world of gemstones to the MB&F Flying T for the Allegra watch, and the relationship was strong. So, Buonamassa Stigliani made some sketches, put a call in to Max Busser, founder of MB&F, and the journey began.

Three years later, in time to celebrate the Chinese New Year of the Snake and MB&F’s 20^th anniversary, the bold mechanical interpretation of the Serpenti makes its debut. The new watch will be created in an incredibly limited edition of just three versions and just 33 pieces of each. Not only is the mechanical movement a significant accomplishment, but so is the complex new three-dimensional case – complete with apertures for the hours in the minutes that are designed to replicate the snake’s eyes.

Lone-Wolf Thinking for the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

This new rendition deftly blends technology, mechanics, art, history and unparalleled watchmaking. MB&F is known for its three-dimensional timepieces with bold cases that go where most wouldn’t even dream of going —  from spaceships to automobiles, frogs, and even the beloved bulldog. Maximilian Busser constantly thinks outside of the box.

Similarly, Buonamassa Stigliani is a bit of a lone wolf himself when it comes to designs and creative ideas, always crafting watches with an inventive, almost adventurous spin to them. This one, however, really seemed to come together for the two companies.

The case of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch is all about the generous curves that recall the shape of a snake’s head with angles and insights – thanks to five  perfectly machined sapphire crystals — that give depth and dimension and also bring the mechanics of the movement to the forefront.  However, those sapphire crystals were a challenge not just to machine and finish, but also to set them into place and ensure 30 meters of water resistance. Which, of course, the brands accomplished.

In a private zoom interview with Max Busser of MB&F, he admitted that the project was incredibly challenging. “Now, after three years of insane work, we bring something which I think is just mind boggling. We are used to creating kinetic sculptures with our watches, and so we know there will be  challenges, but this one was complex from the case to the movement.”

Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti Inside and Out

In fact, the manual wind mechanical movement was conceived of and developed in house by MB&F, with special attention paid to Buonamassa Stigliani’s directive that the Serpenti’s eyes needed to be a key feature. As such, the two half-moon shaped “eyes” showcase the hours and minutes using paper-thin aluminium revolving domes – drawing the wearer’s attention immediately to them.  Between the eyes of the Serpenti, the balance wheel of the watch is constantly in motion – almost like a brain.

The rear lugs of the watch incorporate two crowns: one on each side of the case for time setting and winding. The case back also features a sapphire crystal to showcase more of the 310 hand-finished components.

The three versions of the watch include a titanium case with blue hour and minute domes (snake eyes) and blue strap, an 18-karat rose gold case with green domes (eyes) and a green rubber strap, and a black PVD stainless steel model with bright red eyes and a hand-stitched black rubber strap.

 “This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision,” said Buonamassa Stigliani in a press release issued by the brands. “I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA, but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”

The Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti watch is so complex that MB&F’s watchmakers will assemble only six to eight movements monthly. As such, the 99 pieces will take more than a year to deliver. The titanium and steel versions of the watch are expected to sell for about $148,000  and the rose gold model will sell for  $170,000.

Impressions of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti

If I haven’t said it yet, I love the new Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch. It truly is a deft blend of both brands. Granted, the architecture and the mechanics of the watch are more akin to MB&F’s 3D psyche, but Bulgari shines through, too, with elegant touches, a soft roundness and the mysteriously playful attitude that underscore the beloved Serpenti. It’s hard to pick a favorite of the three. The gold and green version seems right at home in nature — much like the snake, but the red and black model conjures visions of the colorful, perhaps venomous, vipers. My least favorite — unusual for me since I love the color — is the blue version. But I would wear any one of them, to be honest.

So, what do I love more than the watch? The collaboration between Fabrizio and Max. Both have similar passions, both love  cars and car design, both are from a similar genre and each has such great respect for the other. I love when this happens in our industry — especially with two such inventive spirits.

(This article by Roberta Naas first appeared on her column on Forbes.com.)