A Closer Look At The TAG Heuer Formula 1 X Kith Watches And The Partnership

(Portions of this article by Roberta Naas first appeared on Forbes.com.)

It was billed as a relaunch of the beloved Formula 1 watch that TAG Heuer first unveiled to the world in 1986. But then, for the launch of this new watch, the brand partnered with street-fashion brand Kith –adding some colorful new versions — and things took on a different look. The original TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch from 1986 was the first to bear the TAG Heuer name. Afterall, TAG had just finished its acquisition of Heuer and wanted to make a big splash. I know. I was there. In fact, the launch and the buyout articles were among the first big ones I covered in the watch world.

Naysayers at the time were concerned that the Formula 1 watch was too inexpensive and could hurt the brand. The first Formula One watches – Series 1 — were colorful with bright dials in racing colors of blue, red, green and black. They featured plastic straps, oversized dial markers and ratcheted bezels. Interestingly, they were an immediate hit. They garnered an almost cult-like following. It didn’t hurt that TAG Heuer’s advertising also boasted the fact that a top F1 racing team of the time was equipped with the timepieces.

Over the years, the Formula 1 collection evolved, with chronographs emerging and new materials and designs coming into play — as well as some wild colors for the time, including pink and lime green. More than 3 million of that Series 1 were sold in the watch’s early lifetime, but when LVMH purchased TAG Heuer in 1999, it discontinued Formula 1 in 2000. Fans were stricken. But in 2004, an all-new Series 3 Formula 1 emerged, with a host of new lines ensuing in the coming decades. The Formula 1 remains not only a key pillar for the brand and a most sought-after vintage timepiece, but a stalwart player among watch and car lovers.

So then, one needs to ask, why would TAG Heuer opt to team with Kith for the re-release of one of its most anticipated and desired relaunches in years?  The story goes that Kith founder Ronnie Fieg was a huge fan of early Formula 1 watches and owner of a red-and-black version. He was excited to work with TAG Heuer to recall those spectacular original timepieces. Apparently, the brand found the association to be mutually intriguing, especially since it hopefully helps garner a new, younger customer who can appreciate the input of Kith when it comes to color, style and cool street looks, but still appreciate a watch born in the 1980’s and probably worn by their dads.

The new TAG Heuer X Kith Formula 1 watches use upgraded materials and exciting colors in a host of limited edition pieces yielding 10 colorways in total. But that isn’t all, there is even a limited-edition set of all 10  being offered. —  and even sets.

The watches are 35mm in size – perfect for any wrist. The dial of every watch bears the Kith name above the Heuer name in the logo shield at 12:00, while at 6:00, the words “Just Us” are written in script – a nod to Kith’s motto and concept of being “family.”  In an interesting design twist, the markers at 12:00, 6:00 and 9:00 are in TAG Heuer shield format, while the others are bold round circles. The 3:00 spot is reserved of the date aperture. All hands and markers, as well as the numerals on the bezel are in Super-LumiNova.

Each dial boasts a vertical stripe pattern in contrasting colors to the dial, an outer minute track in color-coordinated hues and an outer flange – bringing the watches clearly into modern and contemporary mode. For the case, TAG Heuer turned to the original supplier of the Series 1 – which resurrected the original molds used for the 1986 watches. Hence, the identity of the new pieces is embracing the original  40-year-old icon.

Additionally, the new iterations boast updated materials. The case is made of stainless steel and glass fiber for ultimate strength, the original plastic crystal is replaced by the modern sapphire crystal. The plastic strap gives way to an updated rubber strap, and the colors of the new pieces are an artful blend of combinations from both TAG Heuer and Kith. Even the case back of the watches boast a new look – the recurring pattern of the shield with Kith and Heuer inside.

 There are 10 new watches crafted in stainless steel with glass fibers and equipped with either a steel bracelet or rubber strap. Seven of the watches are exclusive to Kith and each pays homage to a location of a Kith store around the world: think Hawaii, New York, Miami, Toronto, Tokyo and more. Each of the seven Kith exclusives are crated in a limited edition of 250 pieces and the two with s teel bracelets (in blue bezel and green bezel)  are made in limited numbers of 350 each.

There are two versions that are exclusive to TAG Heuer: a version with black PVD case and dial with either blue or green bezel and color-coordinated straps. Just 825 pieces of each will be made.One version, a black-bezel piece with red accents on a steel bracelet with eggshell-colored dial, is shared between Kith and TAG Heuer points of sale and is created in a limited edition of 1350 pieces. Each of the watches – whether for sale by Kith or TAG Heuer — retails for $1,500.

Finally, for the real collector of Formula 1 Series 1 watches, a set of all 10 watches is being offered.  Just 75 sets will be made, each retailing for $18,000. Kith will sell 25 of the sets, while TAG Heuer will sell the other 50 sets.

TAG Heuer is launching a complete campaign around the new Formula 1 X Kith watches that is a nod to its Formula 1 racing heritage past and current involvement. Watches will be photographed against helmets, racing paraphernalia and cars of Red Bull Racing. It is another nod to the year 1986, when the brand equipped the then-active Honda Marlboro McLaren team with the Series 1 Formula 1 watches. Today, TAG Heuer plays an active sponsorship role with Red Bull Racing.

 

So, what are your thoughts on the Kith partnership? Mine: TAG Heuer didn’t need it. The Formula One Series One watches were so strong and so greatly appreciated by the watch collecting community that the brand could have gone solo on this relaunch. However, I do appreciate the desire for the brand to team with a young, highly current street-fashion brand like Kith. Let’s bring a new generation to Formula One watches.