A Closer Look At The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Precious Flower Watches

(This article by Roberta Naas first appeared on Forbes.com.)

After a superb introduction of complicated Duometre watches unveiled last month at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre pulls out all the stops when it comes to Métiers d’Arts Reverso watches. Each of the three new Reverso watches — the famed watch unveiled to the world in 1931 whose dial swivels in the case to reveal the opposite side – is created in a limited edition of 10 pieces. Each Precious Flowers watch demonstrates the brand’s incredible artistic prowess in enamel work, gold leaf motifs and gem setting.

By turning to the beauty and vibrant hues of the tropics, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s master artisans adorn both sides of each Art Deco watch with colors and flowers designed to attract the eye and the heart.  The new high-jewelry art pieces are all crafted in 18-karat pink gold cases, which are meticulously adorned in the brand’s Métiers Rares™ Atelier in its workshops in Le Sentier, Switzerland.

On the front side of each Reverso is the brand’s Reverso One dial – a clean, crisp rectangular motif of black stylized Arabic numerals against at white mother-of-pearl dial. Gold bracket-like corner outlines and hands complete the sophisticated look. It is the perfect harmoniously balanced look for the elaborate and elegant tropical décor that ensconces its, reaches around the case sides and completely adorns the reverse side of the watch.

To create the stunning fields of flowers on each watch, the master artisans utilize a centuries-old technique of Champleve (raised) enamel, Grand Feu enamel, a multitude of gem-setting methods and paillonnage, where in 24-karat gold leaf pieces outline stems and flowers. The work is incredibly time consuming and at any stage, a simple slip-up means starting again from scratch.

The first step of the designs is carving or hollowing out sections of the gold case surface to form an outline. The enamel is then painted into the sections layer after layer, firing after firing. In fact, the case requires a minimum of 10 firings to build the depth and hue of the desired colors.  Finally, the gem-setting is begun – a delicate and complex endeavor that involves readying the gold and setting each diamond or gemstone individually.

Each of the three Reverso Precious Flowers watches is powered by the manually wound  Caliber 846 made entirely in house. Each has its own motif. Easily one of the most alluring is the  Birds of Paradise – a bold and brilliant statement in green leaves and red/orange floral beauty. In fact, this watch is created using 19 different colors of enamel – requiring more than 60 hours of incredibly skilled craftsmanship. The vibrant flowers are complemented with snow-set diamonds on the background. Approximately 331 diamonds (1.64 carats) are meticulously set for a seamless sparkle. The gem setting alone requires another 65 hours of hand craftsmanship. The watch is finished with a rich green alligator strap.

There are also two different Hibiscus versions: a pale blue Hibiscus Enamel and a vibrant blue Hibiscus Diamonds. Inspired by the tropical waters, the Hibiscus Enamel watch represents the first time the brand has created an entire Grand Feu enamel case – wrapping the enamel around the sides and onto the dial side. For this version, 12 different colors of enamel, painted between lines of gold, are used. The enamel work alone requires approximately 50 hours of labor. Then, the gadroons and lugs are set with 157 diamonds weighing 1.25 carats. This work requires another 22 hours. It is finished with a light blue alligator strap.

The Hibiscus Diamonds watch brings multiple arts together with enamel hibiscus flowers in blue and green set against a sparkling backdrop of diamonds. In fact, 523 diamonds weighing more than 2 carats are set on this watch. Between all of the arts applied, the Hibiscus Diamonds watch requires more than 150 hours of Métiers Rares™ exquisite craftsmanship. This version is finished with a royal blue alligator strap. Again, just 10 pieces of each will be made. Prices are on request.