A Closer Look At The $148,300 Freak S Nomad By Ulysse Nardin

(Portions of this article by Roberta Naas first appeared on Forbes.com.)

Ulysse Nardin, a brand with the determination to go where others don’t — from technology to craftsmanship, pioneering designs and mechanics, creative partnerships and even grassroots causes — took a little side-trip to the desert for the sand-colored mainplate that serves as the backdrop for the new Freak S Nomad watch (released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024). The result is superb.

When it was first introduced to the world in 2001, the Ulysse Nardin Freak watch was – well – a freak. I know; I was there. I met in New York City with Ludwig Oechslin (the brains behind the watch) and then-owner Rolf Schnyder. I had already been in the watch industry for more than a decade and thought I had seen everything (boy was I mistaken)– but times were changing and technology was passing us by in leaps and bounds. The then-revolutionary new Freak watch, with rotating carousel, high-tech silicon parts, no hands and a three-dimensional space-age look was mind-boggling.

Over the past decades, Ulysse Nardin has continually evolved the Freak and now the new Freak S Nomad is a new-age blend of futuristic innovation, time-honored craftsmanship and commitment to its lineage.  Created in a titanium case with case sides of carbon fiber and PVD titanium bezel (used to set the time), the Freak S Nomad boasts a guilloche dial plate in a sand-colored metal reminiscent of Dune – or at least the desert. Hence the nod to the nomadic life.

Devoid of hands, devoid of crown and devoid of dial, the Freak S Nomad is a lesson in precision engineering.  Like its predecessors, the Freak S Nomad’s main display – and eye-arresting allure —  is a spaceship-like 3D flying carousel that rotates around its access. It is equipped with two oscillators with silicon balance wheels inclined at 20 degrees – exuding a look akin to launchpads. The  escapements  — linked by a vertical differential system mounted on ball bearings — are coated with high-tech DIAMonSIL (a diamond-coated silicon) for exceptional durability. The “spaceship” center performs the functions of the minute hand, and a guilloche hour disk rotates beneath the carousel. The 373-part Caliber UN-251 Manufacture movement utilizes the brand’s proprietary and patented Grinder® automatic winding system with blades technology and that is twice as efficient as a regular rotor.

As if the sci-fi look of the watch and the freakish engineering of it was not enough, the powers that be at Ulysse Nardin – today an independent brand – insisted on haute horology watchmaking and craftsmanship. Each component is finished by hand and hand assembled. Even the incredible guilloche pattern on the plate – designed to replicate the dunes of time – are created by hand. A single skilled artisan uses an 18^th century rose engine, turned entirely by hand, to create the sequence  of intersecting curves. In fact, the plate requires 240 continuous movements be made over a three-hour period.  One slip, slightly too much or too little pressure, or a single stray thought can destroy the entire work.

In short, the new Freak S Nomad is an in-your-face statement about time, technology and centuries-old traditions – a veritable sandstorm in desert hues and futuristic timing. The 45mm Freak S Nomad offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is finished with a gray rubber textured strap or an open worked matte alligator leather strap with sand-colored calfskin inserts. The micro-mechanical marvel is water resistant to 30 meters. Just 99 pieces will be made, each retailing for $148,300.